Gaglioppo: The most original Calabrian Grape

24.9.2018

 

HISTORY

“Gaglioppo” grape represents a small historical heritage of the territory of the Ionian coast, for some years the subject of a work of experimentation and research to obtain better grapes and better vines. Nowadays, Gaglioppo is the typical red grape variety of the Cirò area.

Calabria has a thousand-year tradition in the field of viticulture and even today the landscape of many coastal areas is designed by vineyards, which occupy the space escaping toward the  blue horizon of the sea. The first Greek navigators, moved by the spirit of adventure and the search for new business opportunities, landed in these lands around the eighth century BC.

In that time, the indigenous peoples began the process of domestication of the wild vine and the exchanges with the Greek colonizers, making Magna Graecia a region famous for viticulture. So that, the term Enotria (land of wine) with which the Greeks identified a good part of southern Italy, confirms the ancient vine-growing vocation of a territory stretched out towards the sea and a natural crossroads of encounters and contaminations between peoples and civilizations from all over the Mediterranean.

We do not know with certainty which vines were produced in our antiquity such as, in Greek,the amineo, the thurino, the byblinos, the lagaritano, the reghinon, but we can conjecture that these were the ancestors of the actual vines of our South, even if such cultivars have disappeared today.

However, it is worth mentioning to the Calabrian winemakers of having been able to preserve an extraordinary patrimony of autochthonous varieties, still today at the base of the most famous vines of the Region. The international vines arrived late and have affected, only marginally, a production that has its roots in the ancient history of the territory.

Gaglioppo is mainly present in the hilly area of ​​Cirò, located north of Crotone, along the Ionian coast. Thanks to a Mediterranean climate, warm and ventilated, and clay-limestone soil, particularly suited for quality viticulture, Gaglioppo has found its ideal habitat in this area.

 

NATURE OF THE GRAPE

Gaglioppo is a vine of good vigor and productivity, with a rather long vegetative cycle and a medium-late maturation. It produces bunches with a conical shape, with a notable morphological variety among the various biotypes. The berries are small, with a fairly thick and pruinose, black-purple skin.

For many years many researches  have been undertaken to select the best clovers of gaglioppo, with the final aim of raising the quality of the vines.

Many companies have always believed in the potential of the vine and have pursued a project to enhance the Gaglioppo. The research started with a mass selection of old trees in the Cirò area, chosen according to the presence of small bunches and berries, tendentially sparse, suitable for producing with low yields.

The material was then re-implanted in experimental vineyards, with the aim of isolating the best clones. This initial project was accompanied by the creation of an experimental field of seed plants, with the aim of observing the genetic variability of the cultivar and selecting the best biotypes.

Finally, Gaglioppo and the ancient native vines have been studied through DNA, grape and micro-vinification analyzes.  The road to a progressive qualitative improvement of the material in the vineyard has been traced and will bear fruit in the future.

As for the forms of breeding, still today the traditional Greek tree is favorite, a tree which covers about 70% of the gaglioppo vineyard area. Handled with short pruning and high plant density, the sapling ensures high quality grapes and adapts perfectly to the climate of the territory.

Special Calabrian Salami: “Soppressata di Decollatura”

10.7.2018

PERFECT SEASONING: THE DROP FROM A SLICE

If you want to taste a natural and authentic Mediterranea food, then “soppressata di Decollatura” is your choice.

It is a typical salami of the Calabrian plateau, called “Pre-Sila”, and is produced in the municipality of Decollatura (inside the territory of Catanzaro). This soppressata owes its prestige, above all, to the quality of native pigs, reared in the house with leftovers from the kitchen, acorns and bran. Further, the meat processing and maturing process accurately reflects the centuries-old traditions of Decollatura. So that you can justly say that Calabrian culture and cuisine mix together inside this special salami.

The meats, that are used for the preparation of “soppressata”, are the lean ones of the thighs and the fillets, mixed with the fat of the neck. The mixture of meat is then salted and mixed with sauce and peppers sauces. Then, the meat, so prepared, is  stuffed into the intestines. Finally, a typical characteristic of “soppressata” is the drop that comes out from the first cut, which indicates the perfect seasoning and quality.

This salami must be eaten raw and used as an appetizer. It must be cut into thin slices and accompanied by a local red wine, for example Donnici DOC, Melissa or Lamezia.

 

SLOW FOOD LOCAL COMMUNITY

At the end of June 2013 the first feast of the Decollatura’s Soppressata was held (of course…in the town of Decollatura).

Further, a local community of producers founded in Decollatura the so called “Accademia della Soppressata”. This institution, coming from an original idea of  mr. Ennio Bonacci, has the purpose to spread and keep alive the tradition of this Salami of Decollatura.

It is needless to remember that at Decollatura “soppressata” is produced by almost all families for self-consumption and by many farmers for direct sales. Therefore, the municipality of Decollatura, the Mountain Community and the Slow Food association have decided to set up a producers association of the… “Soppressata di Decollatura”.