A Greek passito wine: Greco di Bianco

24.1.2018

This magnificent wine comes from the zone of Bianco, a little town on the Ionian coast, in Calabria, in front of a sparkling sea with an intense blue color, but also from a larger area covering the villages of Bovalino, Africo and generally the Ionian coast, the southern part towards Reggio Calabria, even further south from Locri and Gerace.

Effectively, Greco di Bianco is the term that indicates the typical grape variety of the coastal strip of Reggio Calabria on the Ionian side in the municipality of Bianco (RC), and there the homonymous DOC wine is protected.

However, DOC protection allows production in the same province of Reggio di Calabria and in the neighboring municipalities.

The variety of Greco is also used in two other DOCs of southern Italy, namely Greco of Gravina, in Basilicata, and Greco di Tufo, in Campania.

 

HISTORY OF A GREEK WINE

The name of “Greco di Bianco” easily recalls the Greek origin of the vine. Greco di Bianco is considered the oldest wine in Italy together with “Moscato di Siracusa”.

The wine is obtained from the white Greek vine, poor in fruit and originating from Greece, from where it was imported around the VIII century a. C. Precisely, when the Greeks landed at the promontory Zefirio (today called Capo Bruzzano).

The antiquity of the wine is confirmed by a legend, according to which a force of 10,000 Locrians took sufficient strength and courage from copious draughts of the local wine to defeat an army of 130,000 men from Croton in 560 BC. Further, the myth talks of such wonderful nectar. The mythological tradition gives credit to divine as well as enological assistance, for Castor and Pollux were said to have been sent by Apollo to fight at the side of the Locrians.

In 1966 the Greco di Bianco reached a very low level of production, which is why any local agricultural cooperatives were founded in Bianco, with the aim of enhancing and standardizing its production. The success was reached in 1980, when Greco di Bianco received the DOC brand protection.

Greco di Bianco, created as a DOC title in 1980, is now one of very few Calabrian DOC white wines and outstanding dessert wines.

 

THE LAND OF THE WINE

The plant found in the land of Bianco any climatic conditions similar to those of origin. The vineyards in front of the sea capture at the most light and heat. The production begins with the drying phase of the grapes, when the wine absorbs minerals and fragrant substances.

The bunch of the Greco B. di Bianco vine is long, loose, and can reach a maximum length of 60 centimeters. The berries are small and round, very developed grape seeds and, therefore, with little pulp and very thin skin.

The most used breeding system is the bilateral horizontal spur cord. The shoots reach up to 7 meters in length and are adorned with lobate leaves, shiny on the upper page, typical of these vines. Another system of breeding, now practiced only on old vineyards, is the tree.

The vine has an average yield of fresh grapes of about 100 q / ha. Before being squeezed, the grapes are dried on reeds until a minimum reduction of 35% is recorded.

THE FEATURES

Greco di Bianco is a must of Mediterranean and Calabrian wine production. This wine, made from Greco grapes and produced in the seaside resort of Bianco in southeastern Calabria, is also known as Greco di Gerace, given that the latter is near. Nevertheless, Greco di Bianco is arguably the most interesting wine style produced in Calabria, southern Italy.

It is a copper-hued dessert wine, made from partially dried grapes, and stands out from Calabria’s other wines, most of which are dry, often over-alcoholic table wines with little to distinguish them.

Greco di Bianco is produced as a passito-style wine, meaning that the grapes are partially dried before they are pressed and fermented. This process concentrates the natural sugars, and increases the potential alcohol level of the must to 17% or more.

Therefore, Greco di Bianco is considered one of the rarest-of Italian dessert wines, with its unique amber color, coming from the high levels of phenolic development in the over-ripe grapes.

It is luscious, rich and velvety in texture; it exhibits an aromatic bouquet reminiscent of orange flowers, citrus fruit and underlying herbal notes that become more accentuated with age. Further, its straw-yellow color with amber reflections, has ethereal scent, flavor tending to liqueur, alcoholic smell, and characteristics of a soft, warm, harmonious and persistent taste.

The olfactory impact has sweet notes of apricot, orange blossom, honey and candied orange.

Conclusively, it is an excellent meditation wine, well suited to desserts with dried fruit, creams, jams, pastries, Sicilian cassata, fruit, biscuits and spicy hard cheeses.

EVO Bruzio DOP: The Olive Oil

27.7.2018

Bruzio DOP (so called “Denominazione di Origina Protetta”, protected denomination) extra virgin olive oil is a genuine manufacture, coming from gastronomy deep experience of Calabrian people. The native cultivars of the provincia of Cosenza (Calabria) give raise to an olive oil with a fruity flavor, more or less intense, depending on the percentage of olives used (there are four varieties of olives: “Tondina”, “Carolea”, “Grossa di Cassano”, “Rossanese”).

This golden liquid is an extra virgin olive oil produced in four main types, each accompanied by a specific geographical mention:

  • “Fascia Pre-pollinica” (Pre-pollinic band),
  • Valle Crati,
  • Presidium of Jonian Hills,
  • Sibaritide.

Precisely, the Prepollinica Band Bruzio DOP has the following composition:

  • Tondina, not less than 50%;
  • Carolea, not more than 30%;
  • Grossa di Cassano, not more than 20%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 25%.

The “Valle Crati” Bruzio DOP is so composed:

  • Carolea, not less than 50%;
  • Tondina, not more than 30%;
  • Rossanese or Dolce di Rossano, not more than 20%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 20%.

The “Colline Joniche Presilane” Bruzio DOP:

  • Rossanese or Dolce di Rossano, not less than 70%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 30%.

The Sibaritide Bruzio DOP:

  • Grossa di Cassano, not less than 70%;
  • Tondina, not more than 30%.
  • Other varieties present in the olive groves can contribute to a maximum of 30%.

 

ORIGINS

Homer called olive oil “golden liquid”. In ancient Greece, athletes ritually rubbed it all over the body. Its mystic glow illuminated the story. Olive oil was more than just food for the people of the Mediterranean: it was a medicine, an infinite
source of fascination and wonder, source of wealth and power. The branches and leaves of the olive tree, symbol of abundance, peace, have crowned the victorious in friendly games and bloody wars.

Crowns of olives and olive branches, emblems of blessing and purification, were ritually offered to the gods and to the powerful: some they were even found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.
With the expansion of the Greek colonies, the cultivation of the olive tree has reached Calabria (the “Brutium”) in the 8th century B.C.

Olive trees were planted in the entire region under the Roman Empire and, according to the historian Pliny, the our land had “excellent olive oil at reasonable prices” already in the I sec. a.C .: “The best in the Mediterranean”, he argued.

The belief that olive oil conferred strength and youth was well widespread. In antiquity it was infused with flowers and herbs to produce both medicines that cosmetics: a list was found at Mycenae he listed the aromas added to the olive oil in the preparation of the ointments.
Olive trees have a titanic resistance, a vital force that almost makes them immortal. It is not strange that Christian Catholic religion identify the oil with one of the symbol of the Holy Spirit, who is immortal.

Despite the harsh winters and the torrid summers, they continue to grow proud and strong, reaching out to the sky, bringing fruits that nourish, heal, inspire and amaze, and stones, drought, silence and solitude are their habitat.

 

PRODUCTION AREA

The area of ​​production and processing of Bruzio DOP extra virgin olive oil falls in several municipalities in the province of Cosenza, while packaging operations can be carried out throughout the province of Cosenza, in the Calabria region.

BOTANIC FEATURES

Bruzio oil is obtained from the fruits of the species Olea Europaea, varieties Tondina, Carolea, Grossa di Cassano and Rossanese, accompanied by additional geographical indications based on the area of ​​production: Fascia Prepollinica, Valle Crati, Colline Joniche Presilane, Sibaritide.

 

PRODUCTION METHOD

The olive harvest must take place from the beginning of ripening and until December 31 or January 15 depending on the variety. The milling must be done within two days of collection. Packaging is allowed within the province of Cosenza.

APPEARANCE AND TASTE

Pre-pollinic band olive oil is obtained from the Tondina varieties (at least 50%), Grossa di Cassano (up to 20%), Carolea (up to 30%).

The oil has a green color with yellow reflections, a medium fruity smell and a fruity flavor.

Valle Crati is obtained from the varieties Carolea (at least 50%), Tondina (up to 30%), Rossanese (up to 20%); it has a green to yellow color, a medium fruity aroma and a fruity flavor.

Presidium Joniche Hills Bruzio olive oil is produced from the Rossanese varieties (at least 70%); it has a golden yellow color with green reflections, a delicate fruity aroma and a fruity flavor with a sweet almond aroma.

Finally, Sibaritide is obtained from the Grossa di Cassano (at least 70%) and Tondina (up to 30%) varieties; it has a yellow color with some green reflections, a light fruity aroma and a fruity taste with a slight hint of bitterness.

ORGANOLEPTIC FEATURES

The Pre-pollinic band Bruzio DOP has:

  • Color: green with yellow reflections;
  • Smell: medium fruity;
  • Taste: fruity olive;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols: > or = 200 p.p.m.

The Valle Crati Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: from green to yellow;
  • Smell: medium fruity;
  • Taste: fruity olive;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols: > or = 200 p.p.m.

The Colline Joniche Presilane Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: golden yellow with green reflections;
  • Smell: delicate fruity;
  • Taste: fruity with a sensation of sweet almond;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.80%;
  • Total polyphenols:> = 150 p.p.m.

The Sibaritide Bruzio oil DOP:

  • Color: yellow with some green reflection;
  • Odor: light fruity;
  • Smell: light fruity, with a slight bitter sensation;
  • Maximum acidity: 0.70%;
  • Total polyphenols:> = 150 p.p.m.

In all cases, this extra virgin olive oil is an easily perishable food, it should be kept in a cool place away from sources of heat, light and products that give off special odors, at a temperature between 14 and 18 ° C.

It is advisable to consume it within 4-6 months of pressing, to enjoy it during the period of maximum expression of its flavor.

Bruzio DOP extra-virgin olive oil is delicately aromatic and therefore particularly suitable for dressing boiled vegetables, grilled fish and salads, as well as an ingredient for first courses of Calabrian gastronomy.

Finally, Bruzio DOP extra virgin olive oil is characterized by a maximum total acidity level that varies between 0.7 and 0.8 g per 100 g of oil and a total polyphenol level greater than or equal to 200 ppm.