authentic – Page 32

8.8.2019

In 2019 the municipalities of Mormanno, Laino Castello and Laino Borgo, in association, have decided to establish a special certification of origin of a local food, the so called “Poverello Bianco”, a white Bean, cultivated on the hills of Pollino. This certification is a Municipal Denomination (the so called “De.Co.”).

It is one of the few cases in which neighboring municipalities recognize a single De.Co.

The regional authority ARSAC contributed to this important recognition, offering the necessary collaboration to the three Municipalities with meetings between farmers, producers and sitributors, with the preparation of production disciplinary.

BOTANIC FEATURES

The white “Poverello” bean is a local ecotype of Phaseolus vulgaris L., which is cultivated in the territory of the Pollino National Park, in the irrigated areas of the three Municipalities of the Province of Cosenza.

Qualitatively it is characterized by a large oval-shaped white seed, without mottling, with a low percentage of integument and a reduced cooking time. It has a high protein content on average of about 26% and high values of sulfur proteins.

The cultivation of this bean, like all legumes, also has a great environmental value due to the type of root which, penetrating deeply, maintains a good soil structure also preserving it from erosion (such kind of soil protection in Calabria is highly recommended).

The roots also develop tubercles as a result of the symbiotic relationship with the bacteria of the genus Rhizobium, which are able to fix atmospheric gaseous nitrogen transforming it into nitric and ammoniacal forms easily assimilated by plants and providing a fair amount of nitrogen in the ground.

For these reasons, in crop rotations, the cultivation of the white poverello bean, like all legumes, is considered very useful to improve the physico-chemical conditions of the soil.

INITIATIVES TO RELAUNCH THIS PRECIOUS FOOD

Since the beginning of the 90s of the last century various initiatives have carried out to the aim of relaunching the white “Poverello” bean, determining a greater interest on the part of producers and consumers and a consequent increase in cultivated area.

The recent investigation in 2019, in order to ascertain the qualitative characterization of its crop, was conducted by the Agricultural Dissemination Center (Ce.D.A.) n. 2 of the ARSAC of Castrovillari (CS). In collaboration with prestigious research institutions such as the Institute of Biosciences and Bioresources of the CNR of Bari, and the CREA-Research Center for Horticulture in Pontecagnano (SA), the Mediterranean Unversity of Reggio Calabria, and the ENEA.

In all these years, as well as assisting the producers individually, the Technicians have carried out surveys on the agronomic technique, the defense against pests and the quality of the crop by publishing the data in prestigious national and international journals and in acts of conferences.

The experts even more recently has held seminars attended by young entrepreneurs and concerning both this ecotype and the typical and quality horticulture of the Pollino, leading to the establishment of a cooperative called “Pollino Food Experience“.

THE CULTIVAR

The sowing of this bean is carried out within the first half of June while the harvest takes place by October. As in the tradition, the cultivation technique excludes the use of synthetic chemicals. The product is sold both in bulk and in vacuum packs of 700 and 350 grams.

**Sight from the Pollino toward Maratea**

From an economic analysis of the cultivation of this ecotype of bean, it emerged that potentially on one hectare it is possible to obtain a production of about 13 quintals (equal to 1,300 kg) of dry product, which, at an average selling price of about 10 , 00 Euro per kg, would provide a Gross Salable Production (GSP) of about 13,000.00 Euro.

Considering that the explicit costs incurred for a production cycle are on average equal to 40% of the value of the GSP – and therefore of about € 5,200.00, a probable income of approximately € 8,000.00 per hectare is calculated.

An added value derives from the use of this bean together with other excellent Calabrian products in local restaurants.

In conclusion, in light of the described characteristics and the recognition of the De.Co, this excellent product of our territory, as well as contributing to the further affirmation of a low environmental impact agriculture and to the protection of biodiversity, also represents another opportunity of income for the younger generation.

22.6.2019

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

The purchase of olive oil is often among the most difficult quotidian activities of housewifes and of everyone who loves the good cuisine.

We do not always have the opportunity to meet and know personally a producer or have an olive oil mill in our neighborhood. This explains why many of us are forced to turn to the large-scale retail trade, with all the pitfalls and possible frauds that involve this product in particular.

Let’s try then to understand how to defend ourselves from fraud or counterfeiting and above all to add some tools that allow us to choose a good oil, clean, fair and above all healthy.

Meanwhile, we refer you to the following technical notes that help us understand what we mean, in Calabria, with the expression “first cold pressed”.

“First pressed” – means the olives were crushed and pressed only one time. The olive oil extracted from the first pressing is of the highest quality and purity.
“Cold pressed” – means that the olives never exceed a certain temperature during the entire pressing process– around 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Only a first cold pressed olive oil can meet high standards of quality, because purity of oil increases only following such process.

PRICE

This year (2019), a real 1 Lt bottle of 100%-Italian extra virgin olive oil should not cost less than 8 euros. Below this figure it is legitimate to doubt about origin and quality.

If you follow such guidance and instructions, then there are no offers, promotions and below costs, which can be included in the definition of EVO.

Therefore, watch out for the harvest year which, if present, reveals that all the olives with which the oil was made were harvested in the same year.

HOW TO DETERMINE THE PRICE:

Olive grower receives 4.7 euros for a kilo of oil.

The wholesale price then rises to 5.5 euros.

Once worked by the olive oil industry the cost rises to 6.67 euros which includes: VAT, salaries of those who work there, marketing and bottle.

Please, add also the profit of the industry which is around 4% and the GDO margin, on average 15%

The final price therefore comes to around 8 euros. Lower prices are, sadly, only Community blends, potentially frauding!!

FRAUDS

According to a well known research of Mr. Gennaro Sicolo, president of Italia Ovicola (an organization that involves 50% of olive growers in Italy), about one bottle out of two of extra virgin olive oil contains deodorized oils that are then mixed with Italian oils to give it a bit of flavor and reach the basic chemical and organoleptic parameters to be labeled as extra virgin.

“After two months on the shelf these oils in the panel test can be considered as adulterated,” explains Gennaro Sicolo.

But how is this scam happens?

In Italy the olives are harvested between September and October at the right point of ripeness, with a yield of 10 – 13 kg of oil per quintal of olives.

In Spain and Tunisia the harvest begins in January, when the raw material is very mature, in order to have a greater yield. But from a very ripe olive an acid oil is born, so that to remedy it is mixed with a bit of 100% Italian so as to obtain a light fruity that recalls the normal smell and taste of extra Virgin olive oil.

The price of such blend?

Wholesale these deodorized oil lots cost around 2.2-2.4 euros per liter, but to the consumer a mixture of such European community oils costs at least 5 euros … And here this lower price reveal itself as an indicator (certainly not the only one) if not of quality, of the absence of quality!!

Tag: authentic

The Pollino White Bean

Extra virgin olive oil, how to buy it