{"id":2087,"date":"2019-04-26T08:31:54","date_gmt":"2019-04-26T08:31:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/smaf-ltd.com\/wordpress\/?p=2087"},"modified":"2024-12-21T21:33:33","modified_gmt":"2024-12-21T21:33:33","slug":"fascinating-calabria-the-oranges-perfume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.smaf-ltd.com\/wordpress\/fascinating-calabria-the-oranges-perfume\/","title":{"rendered":"Fascinating Calabria: the Oranges perfume"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

20.4.2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the memory and imagination of the Mediterranean, nothing is more associated with his diet and the splendid landscape of Calabria than the fascinating scent of oranges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This natural association of ideas certainly depends on the fact that in Italy the production of citrus fruits and their export (oranges, lemons, mandarins, clementine, bergamot, chinotto) is concentrated in the southern regions and lies on the fact that Calabria produces about a quarter of the national production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this truth, together with the\nfact that the area cultivated with citrus fruits in Calabria is approximately\n35 thousand hectares (25% of the national citrus cultivation area) distributed\namong around 44,000 companies, does not explain all the charm that this food\nand its gastronomy exerts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We need to go back to the myth, as\nwell as to history and the economy, to understand something about the\nfascinating perfume of oranges of this land…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MYTH AND LEGEND<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is a lot of history and legend about the Orange. Particularly, Orange is, symbolically, a Calabrian little sun. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From the Garden of Hesperides<\/strong> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This all-Calabrian fruit, modern but belonging to the noble citrus family, is, maybe, the famous \u201cprecious gold of the Garden of the Hesperides\u201d. According to Greek mythology, Hera offered to her husband Zeus some small trees with golden fruits, symbol of fertility and love, that he, for fear that someone stole them, had kept in a garden at the extreme West of the world, guarded by a dragon and by the nymphs Hesperides, girls singing sweet songs and protagonists of many other legends. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another myth tells of Orange as the precious fruits beloved by Elios, the divinity of the sun, who, after finishing its daily course, went to rest right in the Garden of the Hesperides \u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A TREASURE OF BIODIVERSITY<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the myth we have derived some ideas about the preciousness of this flower, the orange flower, capable of producing one of the most famous fruits in the world, but from botany we can also grasp many other information on the treasure of biodiversity that it offers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Notwithstanding Romans knew the fruit, the European re-discovery of the orange tree dates back, after the medioevum, to a massive Portuguese importation in XIV century from China and Japan, while
the orange tree was just very easy to find in Spain, Greece and Italy, where it was planted, well before the Oriental re-discovery, in IX century by the Arabs and, later, by Genoese merchants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The tree<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

It is, therefore, commonly believed that it was widespread in Italy in the 14th century, particularly in Sicily, where since then the orange groves represent the peculiar Sicilian countryside  and where many varieties are cultivated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the landscape of countryside immediately outstands this tree of orange, the so-called “citrus aurantium”, a fruit tree that belongs to the genus Citrus (family Rutaceae), which generates a winter fruit (the first oranges can be harvested in November, it is the case of “navelina”, and the last in May-June, the late “valencia”), and which can be up to 10-12 meters high, characterized by elongated and rather full-bodied leaves and by beautiful white flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A treasure of different fruits<\/strong> <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The types of oranges are very\nvaried, but they can be classified according to some characteristics, such as\nthe age of maturation, the acid content, the internal and external coloring.\nHowever the commonly used distinction is the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

  • Blond\noranges;<\/li>
  • Umbellished\noranges (Navel);<\/li>
  • Pigmented\noranges.<\/li>
  • Sub-varieties\nof Blonde Oranges<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    The different varieties differ from\neach other by maturation period (from early to late), acidity content, presence\nof seeds, skin color and pulp. Generally they have a high juice yield and a low\nlimonine content (which gives juices a bitter taste), which is why they are the\nones mainly used in the processing industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    BLOND ORANGES: 1) VALENCIA, 2) BLONDE OF TREBISACCE, 3) BELLADONNA AND\n4) OVAL<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The Orange Valencia<\/strong> outstands among the other oranges, the Calabrian variety has a spherical shape, medium-small size (140-190 grams), medium thickness peel and light orange color. The flesh, light orange in color, is characterized by good organoleptic characteristics, few seeds and a high yield in juice, which is why production is often destined for industrial processing. The fruits resist for a long time on the plant and the harvesting period starts from March \/ April and can be prolonged until late summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    A Blond Orange<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Orange Belladonna <\/strong>is a variety of blonde orange not very common, due to its productive\nalternation. It has a medium-large size (150-250 grams), orange-yellow and very\nthick peel. It is a variety of blonde orange with excellent organoleptic\ncharacteristics with a very juicy and seedless pulp. The Orange Belladonna is\nused both for fresh consumption and for industrial processing. With its absence\nof seeds, a very sweet taste and the possibility of remaining on the tree until\nJune-July, Saint Joseph’s blond oranges were called “the oranges of the\ntsar” because they prepared the tables of the Russian rulers and notables\nin the spring-summer period, when they went in vacation to the Crimea. But,\nafter the ‘October revolution’, at the beginning of the 1900s, the journeys of\nthe Russian ships that landed at the Catona bay (Calabria) were interrupted and\nthey ceased to fill the holds with the citrus fruits of Reggio.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The Belladonna orange, also called\n\u201covale di San Giuseppe\u201d, takes its name from the hamlet of Villa San Giuseppe,\nwhere it is cultivated above all along the valleys of the Gallico and Catona\nrivers; it is harvested from May onwards and is a sweet citrus, seedless and\nmuch appreciated as well as being an important emblem of Calabrian biodiversity\nin agriculture. The orange-colored fruit is oval (sometimes sub-ovoid) and\napyrene (or has very few seeds, generally from one to three) and has an average\nsize of 7.5 cm of median diameter and up to 8 cm on average longitudinal\ndiameter. It has an average weight of 220gr. The peel thickness is medium (5-6\nmm) with a medium papillated surface. The pulp is rich in juice over\n51%.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Trebisacce’s Arancia Bionda <\/strong>(likely mutation of the Belladonna orange) is a Calabrian orange variety typical of the high ionian country in the province of Cosenza from which it takes its name. It is a late species whose maturation takes place between March and May in a production area of only 65 hectares. Inserted in Traditional Agri-food products, it is awaiting the coveted I.G.P. certification. Its cultivation techniques have not changed over time. Even the traditional pruning techniques have remained unchanged (pruning is yearly and manual). The undisputed quality of this fruit is its juiciness, characteristic of a sweet and intense taste. Numerous organoleptic properties make it an indispensable ingredient in the kitchen. In the gastronomic tradition of the place, it is common fresh consumption or as an ingredient for a sweet and sour salad along with a fennel, olive oil, sale, black pepper and lemon drops. This Calabrese orange is also used for the preparation of jams, candied fruit, sweets, syrups, granitas and liqueurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Calabrese Oval<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The Calabrese Oval Orange <\/strong>is historically considered as one of the\nmost valuable cultivars. Today the Calabrese Oval Orange appears to be little\ncultivated due to the low yields compared to the Arancia Valencia. The fruit,\nas the name suggests, is oval, of medium size (160-200 grams) with a\nmedium-thick peel and a light orange color. The pulp is juicy and has few\nseeds. Maturation takes place in March and the harvest can be forwarded until\nMay\/June.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    OMBELICATE OR NAVEL ORANGES: 1) WASHINGTON 2) NAVELINA 3) NEWHALL 4)\nNAVELATE<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    These varieties of oranges have at the apex a scar that is called the navel or navel. It is a second partially developed fruit that is incorporated into the main one. These fruits are also seedless, as the flowers are sterile and pollen is not produced. Navel oranges are mainly intended for fresh consumption as they are poorly suited for industrial processing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    For a bright skin<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Washington Navel Orange<\/strong> is the forefather of the Navel Oranges and after the Orange Valencia it is the most widespread cultivar in the world. It probably derives from the spontaneous mutation of orange Selecta and only after the introduction in the United States has it known a wide diffusion. Washington Navel oranges have a large size (up to 350 grams), spherical or slightly elongated. The skin is an intense orange color, while the seedless pulp is fine and rather firm. The period of maturation goes from the end of December to March. Today there are several clones of Washington Navel Orange.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Navelina Orange<\/strong> is a mutation native to Orange California and is also called\n“Early Navel”. The Navelina orange has a smaller size than the\nWashington Navel. The peel is of an intense orange color with an average\nthickness, while the flesh, of a firm consistency, has a very pleasant taste.\nThe maturation is anticipated compared to the Washington Navel and can be\ncarried out from November. It resists very long on the plant increasing the\nsugar content.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Newhall Orange<\/strong>\nis an orignary mutation of Orange California. It has a high size or medium\nthickness peel and quite intense orange color. The shape is slightly more\nelongated than other Navel varieties. The pulp is tender and has good\njuiciness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Navelate Orange<\/strong> is a mutation of the Washington Navel. The fruits of Navelate have a medium-high size (200 grams), oval or slightly elongated shape. The flesh is orange, tender and very juicy. It also has an excellent taste. The ripening period is medium-late and the harvest can be extended until June. Its diffusion is limited due to the low productivity compared to some varieties of Blonde Oranges (e.g. Valencia).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    A wide panorama of fruits<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    VARIETIES OF PIGMENTED ORANGES (\u201cRED ORANGES\u201d)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The fruits belonging to the\nvarieties of pigmented oranges are characterized by the presence in the skin\nand in the pulp of red pigments, the anthocyanins. These fruits have a peculiar\ntaste due to the high level of acidity and sugar. Pigmentation is influenced by\nboth genetic factors and environmental factors, in particular the climate. In\nfact, pigmentation is accentuated when there are strong temperature changes\nduring the day. Furthermore, the fruits of the same variety can present a\nvariable level of pigmentation in different years or in different places of\ncultivation. The production of red oranges worldwide is limited almost\nexclusively to southern Italy (Calabria and Sicily) and reaches about 50% of\nthe production of Italian oranges (down compared to the past).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Orange Sanguinello<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The Orange \u201cSanguinello\u201d<\/strong> is a variety of red orange, which has experienced a certain diffusion in the past for the good quality of the fruits and for the late ripening period. It has a spherical shape and a medium size (150-200 grams). The peel, of medium thickness, is of an intense orange color with red shades, while the color of the pulp is red and the taste is very good. The citric acid content is high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The Orange \u201cMoro\u201d<\/strong> is the variety of red oranges that has the highest\npigmentation even if in recent years the cultivated area has decreased. It has\na globular shape, a medium size (150 grams) and a medium thickness peel. The\npulp is dark red, almost purple. The maturation takes place at the beginning of\nDecember, but the Moro variety oranges reach the optimal organoleptic qualities\nin January.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The Orange \u201cTarocco\u201d<\/strong> represents one of the main specimens of red orange: it entered Italy only in the 17th century, imported from China by a Jesuit monk. We have their own representation by the painter Bartolomeo Bimbi who worked under the Grand Dukes of Tuscany between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    A plenty of possible recipes<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    To this variety belong by now\nnumerous clones with different characteristics, such as ripening time, size,\npigmentation intensity and organoleptic qualities. The main clones are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n